Edith Head

This month we are going “Behind the Scenes” to learn more about the people who work to make television shows great off the screen. Today we get to learn about costume designers.

Costume designers visually define characters. They break down scripts, research time periods, manage budgets, and collaborate with directors and producers to ensure visual consistency. They also oversee fittings, tailor garments, and supervise the wardrobe department on the set.

Characters’ wardrobes have changed during the years. If you watch shows from the fifties to the early seventies, you will notice that the characters have a clothes inventory for the season. You will see characters wearing these clothes over and over during the year. Gracie Allen used to do her own shopping for the dresses she wore on the set.

Costumer designers can design and create clothing for a character, or they can purchase the wardrobes. Sometimes costumers work with big-name designers like Nolan Miller who design clothes for a television character. On That Girl, Ann Marie wore a lot of clothing designed by Marilyn Lewis. On Green Acres, Lisa Douglas’s negligees were purchased from Lucie Ann.

Starting in the late seventies and eighties, it became more common for characters to have new clothing for each episode. If you watch Dynasty or Charlie’s Angels, you probably never see an outfit a second time.

Costumer designers ensure historical accuracy by doing research into time periods and geographical locations. This is reflected in shows like Mad Men or That Seventies Show.

Designing for specific characters includes knowing their personality, creating color schemes that convey emotions, patterns that reflect a personal style, choosing shapes and forms that express a character’s message or social class. Think about a show like Golden Girls where each character has a very different look.

Additionally, designers must consider the set and background colors to make sure the characters are wearing complementary shades or sometimes wearing a clashing color to stand out.

Let’s meet a few television costume designers.

Harald Johnson

Harald Johnson’s work can be seen on The Dick Van Dyke Show, I Spy, and The Mod Squad. He was a member of the motion picture costumers for more than forty years.

In a 2023 online article by Matt Spaiser (https://www.bondsuits.com/the-stylish-beverly-hills-suits-of-the-dick-van-dyke-show/), he shares the following:

“As Rob Petrie, Van Dyke dressed in bespoke suits, which were known simply as ‘custom’ in America. Though the credits read, ‘Mr. Van Dyke’s Wardrobe furnished by “Botany” 500, Tailored by Daroff’, this was not the case literally. Van Dyke used a Beverly Hills tailor named Harry Cherry for his suits. Harry Cherry was the designer of the clothes and the shop proprietor with his name on the door, but he had cutters and tailors working for him.

The famous wardrobe credit was not entirely truthful. This is from the The Dick Van Dyke Show episode ‘My Neighbor’s Husband’s Other Life’.

Botany 500, an average-quality American clothier, paid for their name in the credits and, according to Vince Waldon’s book The Official Dick Van Dyke Show Book, also paid for Van Dyke’s wardrobe. The credit is cleverly and deceptively worded to mean that Daroff tailored clothes for Botany 500, not for Van Dyke. Botany 500 ‘furnished’ Van Dyke’s suits, in the form of paying his tailor. Van Dyke also appeared in advertisements for Botany 500.

In Waldron’s book, the show’s head of costuming Harald Johnson is quoted, ‘Dick was very, very particular about his clothes … He never wore off-the-rack suits. The only things he ever wore that were not custom-made were sportswear items.’ Johnson also said that the deal with Botany 500 provided the show’s producers Sheldon Leonard and Carl Reiner with suits from the same tailor who dressed Van Dyke.

Botany 500 paid a large sum for the Harry Cherry suits, jackets, and trousers. In a series of advertisements in the Los Angeles Times in 1958 promoting a clearance sale of his ready-to-wear clothes—he was shifting to selling only custom clothes—his ready-to-wear suits originally cost from $125 to $225 and were made of ‘Italian and English imported fabrics in 100% cashmere, cashmere-silk and wool, Italian silks, mohairs, lightweight worsted, silk and mohair, etc.’ “

The clothes worn by Mary Tyler Moore and Rose Marie were provided by various suppliers, most of them based in Los Angeles. In Vince Waldron’s book, The Official Dick Van Dyke Show Book, Harald Johnson “negotiated deals with a variety of California-based women’s clothing designers, most of whom were only too happy to loan samples of their latest fashion lines to the show’s female stars in exchange for the exposure and – of course – a prominent plug in the show’s closing credits.”

Mary refused to wear the typical and unrealistic clothing other housewives were wearing on television. In a 2021 online article https://www.cnn.com/style/article/mary-tyler-moore-capri-pants), she was quoted, “I said, I’ve seen all the other actresses, and they’re always running the vacuum in these little flowered frocks with high heels on, and I don’t do that,” she recalled to NPR. “And I don’t know any of my friends who do that. So why don’t we try to make this real? And I’ll dress on the show the way I do in real life. … Within a few weeks, we were sneaking (pants) into a few other scenes in every episode.

Vincent Dee

Born in Pennsylvania in 1915, Vincent Dee passed away in 2006. With almost 100 credits, he was a prolific designer. According to BackstageAudition.com, his “contributions as a costume supervisor are nothing short of extraordinary. His passion for storytelling, coupled with his unparalleled skill in costume design, has brought characters to life in a way that captivates audiences worldwide. Dee’s legacy as a master of his craft will undoubtedly continue to inspire future generations of costumer designers and enthusiasts alike.”

Dee began as a costumer designer on television from 1954 to 1978. He was part of the cast for many popular series including Tales of West Fargo, Bachelor Father, Alfred Hitchcock Presents, Leave It to Beaver, Wagon Train, McHale’s Navy, The Munsters, and The Virginian.

Bachelor Father is one of my favorites and the characters’ wardrobes are spot on. Bentley Gregg is clad in the tailored suits a wealthy attorney would wear. His teen niece Kelly wears typical high school fashion with a polished, upscale vibe. And Peter switches his clothing from white shirt when working at the house to more casual, informal clothing when he’s out and about.

Then you have Leave It to Beaver. June is often made fun of for her flowing dresses and pearls. Barbara Billingsley often told the story about why she wore pearls. She had a large hollow in her neck which became more obvious on screen, so the pearls covered up that stark look. Ward, the businessman is usually in suits or casual attire for golfing. Beaver and Wally wear the typical clothing for boys their age: jeans, flannel shirts, sweaters. The Cleavers are the poster family for a wholesome, clean-cut, conservative family of that time.

The Munsters were a satire of the typical sixties’ family. However, Eddie Munster dressed nothing like Beaver. He wore the same outfit in every show: a velvet suit with short pants and a shite collar with a jacket and gray knee socks. Poor Fred wore heavy looking clothing as a mortician. He was given build-up shoes to expand his 5”6” frame to 7’. His clothing weighed about 50 pounds so there were fans and lemonade and water for him between takes. Lily gives a nod to The Bride of Frankenstein from 1935 with her black and white hair and long, flowing gown.

An interesting story about Dee concerned Edith Head, an amazing designer who often found herself involved in scandals and unethical behavior toward other designers. In a 7-29-2024 online article (https://www.okcmoa.com/edith-heads-controversies) by Kristen Pignuolo, we learn that Head was responsible for promoting The Sting and making sure the actors were happy with their costumes. However, she did no design work for the film. That fell to Peter Saldutti and Vincent Dee who worked with Paul Newman and Robert Redford and Andrea Weaver who was the women’s costumer. The Sting won Best Costume Design. Head received the Oscar and during her acceptance speech failed to even mention Saldutti, Dee, or Weaver.

I think the world of costuming is fascinating. You have all the creative license, scandal, and intrigue of any television plot. I wish we knew more about these hard-working, creative individuals who made our characters so real for us.

Our theme for March is “Variety is the Spice of Life.” We are looking at several variety shows that debuted in the sixties and seventies. Today we are learning about Judy Garland’s show. It’s hard to even know what to call this show. There was constant turmoil during the season it was on the air. It changed personnel, titles, formats, and all this after Garland and CBS had been at odds on past projects before this one even began.

Garland had not been comfortable committing to a weekly series, but she ran into some financial difficulties that forced her to rethink her views on television. When this show was being planned, Garland and CBS had been feuding for five years. Garland had been given a $300,000 contract with CBS to produce three specials. The first special in 1956 had great ratings, but then things fell apart. Garland’s husband and manager Sid Luft could not find any common ground with the network on the format of the second special. Garland filed a lawsuit for libel and breach of contract.

In 1961, as a negotiation of sorts, Garland and CBS agreed to try the specials again. In 1962 her special with Dean Martin and Frank Sinatra aired and received four Emmy nominations. At that point, CBS and Garland began to talk about a weekly series beginning in 1963. The third special with Phil Silvers and Robert Goulet was a pilot for the new series. It also received an Emmy nomination.

The show was cancelled after 26 episodes. Those 26 episodes had three different producers.

George Schlatter produced the first five episodes of the series. The job was originally offered to Bob Banner, but he declined because he was producing a series for Garry Moore and he didn’t want to move from California to New York. When he said no, Bob Finkel was approached, and he declined for the same reason. To make it more complicated, the network offered the job to a local guy, Bill Hobin, who worked with Sing Along with Mitch and was already on the east coast. He accepted the offer, only to learn that people associated with the show had also offered the job to George Schlatter who was willing to move to New York, and he had also accepted the position. It was settled with Schlatter retaining the producer role and Hobin becoming director, an awkward way to begin.

Schlatter got busy hiring. He brought on Mort Lindsey as orchestra conductor, Gar Smith as art director, Edith Head as costume designer, Mel Torme as musical arranger, and Danny Daniels as choreographer.

Schlatter hired Jerry Van Dyke as a series regular, and a few recurring pieces were created. In addition to performing, Garland had a segment “Born in a Trunk” where she told stories about her career. She also had a chat with a “surprise” guest every week. Van Dyke did some stand up and also showed up in sketches throughout the show with Judy. “Maybe I’ll Come Back” was chosen as the closing song over CBS objections, preferring her iconic “Over the Rainbow.”

I’m not sure why it changed after all the hoopla about trying to make producers move, but the show was taped at Studio 43 in Los Angeles. The studio underwent a $100,000 renovation for the show. Some of the changes were necessary and some were silly. A revolving stage was created and raised a bit which made sense. Judy’s dressing room was a replica of her Brentwood home which seems unnecessary and the hallway from her room to the stage was the yellow brick road.

Judy did put her foot down about who her first guest would be; she wanted her old partner Mickey Rooney. It was filmed that way, but the way the episodes were aired made it look like the tenth episode. The seventh show taped with Donald O’Connor was the first episode that aired.

The taping of the first show with Rooney included a star-studded audience including Lucille Ball, Jack Benny, Clint Eastwood, Agnes Moorehead, Dick Van Dyke, Natalie Wood and gossip columnists Hedda Hopper and Louella Parsons. For this opening, Judy wanted to have Cary Grant in the audience as well and introduce her with his iconic “Judy! Judy! Judy!.” Grant, however, passed because he had never actually said this line in any movie and he was tired of everyone associating it with him.

Schlatter was fired after a month and a half. Norman Jewison came in for the next eight shows which he indicated was all he was willing to do.

He had not liked Van Dyke’s jokes about Garland’s shortcomings, and he introduced a segment “Be My Guest” which Mel Torme wrote to allow Garland and her guest to perform together. Van Dyke was not popular with viewing audiences, so he was also gone as were many of the writers and the choreographer.

Bill Colleran jumped in as producer for episode 14 while the other episodes were still airing. He would remain with the show until it was canceled. Once again, the format was changed, focusing on Garland’s musical performances. Sometimes comedy was part of the show but only when the guest star was a comic like Bob Newhart or Shelley Berman.

Ratings had not increased through all of these massive changes, and the show was canceled before the end of January. The final seven shows were taped after the crew knew the show was done. At this point, the show was basically just Judy or Judy and a guest singing for sixty minutes, and the title became Judy Garland in Concert.

Torme stuck with the show through the entire mess and then was fired after 22 episodes when everyone knew there were only four left, and he was replaced by Bobby Cole, someone Garland had just met. He filed for breach of contract and included the details in his memoir. Fans reported they loved Garland, they just didn’t like anything else about the show.

Critics were of differing opinions. The San Francisco Chronicle characterized the show as “tasteful, elegant and exciting.” while the New York Herald Tribune wrote that “Miss Garland is fine, just fine. The rest of the show, however, needs help.”

Fans of the show formed a “Save The Judy Garland Show committee” and organized an early letter-writing campaign on behalf of the series, but their efforts were not enough to prevent the show from being cancelled. The final Judy Garland Show, another concert episode, was broadcast on March 29, 1964.

Schlatter discussed his time on The Judy Garland Show. He was hired after working for the Dinah Shore Show. He said he encouraged the child in her to come out and the two of them had a lot of fun. He said the first five shows were filmed on time and under budget, but he got fired after they were done. CBS told him the shows were “too special.” They wanted Garland to show more warmth which Schlatter thought she already did. After he left, the show featured her sitting on stools and talking more rather than performing.

There seem to be a lot of reasons why the show only lasted one season. There was the revolving door with cast, writers, producers, and a lot of turmoil about the format of the show. CBS president James Aubrey was said to “intensely dislike” Judy for some reason and did not keep that a secret. The show was up against Bonanza on NBC which almost insured its demise. Bonanza was in the top ten, a very popular program. And, this was during a time when the family probably had one television and the family often gathered to watch it together Sunday nights. Most families are going to choose Bonanza over The Judy Garland Show.

While Judy needed the money, the pressures and stress filming this show did not help her mental health. As someone who had experienced addiction issues for a while, she had trouble dealing with the infighting and criticism of her show although most critics went out of their way to give her positive feedback. Sadly, within five years of the show being canceled, Garland was dead from an overdose of sleeping pills. It’s too bad that this show which might have brought her financial comfort and happiness just added to her stress in the entertainment business.

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How pop culture influences us

Costumers: Bringing Characters to Life

The Judy Garland Show: Too Much Turmoil